diy project
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Floor finishes
You have several options
when it com es to refinishing
your floor, with the main
choice being between tung
oil and polyurethanes.
■ Polyurethanes are
available in oil or water-
based formulations.
Traditionally they are oil-
based and very durable, and
com e in satin, sem i-gloss
and high gloss. They are
rather smelly to apply and
darken a little with age.
They have strong adhesive
qualities, and can bond
floorboards together, which
restricts floor movement.
Water-based polyurethanes
clean up with water and
hardly darken with age, but
can be expensive. You’ll
need three coats. Ensure
there's plenty of ventilation.
■ Tung oil is available
as China w ood oil, or
has added resins to
make com bined sealers/
finishes, such as Floorseal
(used here). They tend to
be flexible, penetrating
finishes with a rich low-
sheen look that darkens a
little with age and increases
in glo ss as more coats are
applied. Small dam aged
areas are easy to repair.
■ Other finishes include
stains to give a pale floor a
darker appearance, paints,
and limed finish for a floor
with a sun-bleached look.
■ Whatever finish you
choose, maintain your floor
by regular sweeping, avoid
too much wet mopping,
put mats at entrances
and encourage people to
remove their shoes.
Floor sanding and polishing
GATHER YOUR SUPPLIES
Large floor san der with abrasive p ap ers
(about $ 1 3 0 per day to hire)
■ Edging sander with abrasive papers (about
$ 9 0 per day to hire)
■ Timbermate w ood filler (in colour to suit floor)
■ Feast W atson Floorseal
■ Roller with short nap and extension handle
YOU’LL ALSO NEED
Nail punch; turpentine; scrap er; 1 0 0 -grit
sandpaper; disposable gloves; dust mask
HERE’S HOW
STEP 1
Clear out the
room entirely, and if there
is any carpet, remove it
and its underlay as well,
including any tacks and
staples. Check floor for
protruding nails or nails
at the surface. Use a nail punch and hammer to
sink nails 3mm below floorboard surface, so you
won’t see any nail heads when coated.
STEP 2
If floor has been sanded and coated
before, it probably doesn’t need levelling. Fill nail
holes with a matching timber filler. Floors that
are sanded for the first time should have their
nail holes filled after an initial coarse sanding.
STEP 3
Seal any doors to other parts of house
by taping plastic over them, to protect against
dust. This floor is close to level as it has been
sanded before, so just needs the combination
stain/finish removed. Start with a medium-grit
paper in the large sander. Align the machine
diagonally across the floor, start it with the
drum raised and when it reaches full speed,
start moving, then sanding. This will sm ooth
any irregularities and remove the old finish.
Keep moving, and when you reach a wall, lift
the drum before stopping. Never let the drum
rest on the floor while the machine is on, as it
will sand a depression into the floor.
STEP 4
With the diagonal sanding done, repeat,
but this tim e parallel with the floorboards.
Sand a s little as will do the job, because over
the life of a floor, you can only sand it about
3 tim es before it gets too thin.
STEP 5
The large drum sander cannot get close
to w alls or skirtings, so you need the smaller
edge sander to work up against the skirting.
Sand dow n to sam e level a s large machine,
and keep the machine moving. This will still
not get into corners, so you'll need a scraper
used along the grain to remove the finish and
scrape and sand timber to level of rest of floor
(another reason for not sanding too much).
STEP 6
Give floor, including edges, a final
sand with a fine paper, then sweep up the dust
and discard. Let any dust in the air settle, then
vacuum floor thoroughly. Apply first coat of
finish, which in this case will act as a sealer.
Start by brushing around the edges.
STEP 7
Switch to the roller with an extension
handle fitted to the frame. Roll in direction of
timber and you will suddenly see the colour of
the w ood jump out at you.
STEP 8
Once the first coat is dry, apply 2 more
coats, allowing finish to dry between coats. The
floor will be suitable for light traffic the next day,
and normal traffic after about a week.
For project supplies, see Stockists page
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Photography John Halfhide; styling Melissa Norton
